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The overall strategy                                                                                                     

Needlelace, also called punto in aria, is made of button hole stitch (and its variants) without any permanent fabric foundation at all.   To recapitulate the working sequence for needlelace:

1.   Prepare the 2 layer sandwich/scaffolding of one layer of cloth plus the paper pattern.

2.  Couch the cordonnet to the 2 layer sandwich/scaffold.  Look closely at the junctions of the cordonnet in the photos below (view them at 200% to see all the detail) to see different ways of connecting the cordonnet to itself.  You can easily see that the cordonnet is doubled.  Follow the cordonnet to each intersection to see how it is hooked to itself in many places.  This is necessary to ensure the stability of the whole piece after it is cut off the temporary backing. 

3.  To start filling areas begin by wrapping the lace thread around the cordonnet for about an inch. 

4.  Work successive rows of the chosen filling.  Make sure you never run out of thread in the middle of a row.

5.  End the row by wrapping the ending tail around the cordonnet. 

6. Once all the fillings, bars & brides have been made work close buttonholing over the cordonnet with the stitches very close together.  This permanently locks the beginning and ending tails of the lace thread so they can't unravel.  It locks everything together so the lace can't come apart.  It is really an ingenious method.

In these photos I have started buttonholing the cordonnet -- the final step -- which locks the beginning and ending tails of the lace threads so they can't pull free.  Those loose threads that you see are extra ones laid on top of the outline before you start buttonholing it.  This pads the outline and makes possible a smoother finish to the leaf veins.

7. Slide scissors or razor blade between the 2 layers of cloth (or between the cloth and pattern) and cut the basting stitches.  The lace will then lift off the pattern.  Pick out the little basting threads where you can see them.

Here is one showing the cutting away process:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8PDJraPXTcA 

Another photo of the cutting-away process:  http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_3xZqi2D5BNI/SwVquvGZVPI/AAAAAAAABl4/YWD6u8Zs9ts/s1600/blog20091119b.jpg

In addition to the 2 layer sandwich, some needle lace workers attach the sandwich to a cylindrical pillow.  Those who use this method say it allows them to use both hands to guide the thread, since the pillow is held in the lap not in the hand.  Most workers who like this method seem to prefer a hard bolster about 8-10  inches long and about 6-7 inches in diameter. 

Needle lace in process, some in the hand, some on pillows:

http://needlelacetalk.ning.com/photo/albums/working-setup

http://needlelacetalk.ning.com/video

See for photo:  http://lace.lacefairy.com/Lace/PillowsBobbins/NeedlelacePillow.html   A bolster can be made out of a large coffee can or oatmeal box.  See also    http://stitchinfingers.ning.com/photo/blog20100202d-1?context=user   

Needle lace in Croatia which does show enough to see the working method. The 1st part is needle lace, the middle is bobbin lace and the last part shows both knotted netting worked in the round and teneriffe type lace.  Also some children learning needlelace and using a bobbin lace type of pillow shaped like a Honiton pillow but a little larger.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JuMHTNeUDrI

This one shows Burano in process, you can see how she uses her pillow:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vlUg1RBn1VQ&feature=related

This one shows Burano needle lace, how pillow are held, some work in the hand, one lady cuts the lace free using a razor blade
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6jOhE-YDgog&feature=related  

http://gallery.me.com/cocofefe#100148&bgcolor=black&view=grid

oth228 LH	794 LH	oth 224 LH	oth 203  LH	oth 201 LH	My first needlelace samplers:  messy stitches, and a tension problem I hadn't yet solved.  But this gives an idea of the different densities which can be achieved by just switching between different variants of the buttonhole stitch, many, many variants.  Different spacings, whether or not twists are added, exactly where you put the needle, all produce markedly different textures and densities.   You can also see the close buttonholing covering the cordonnet.  That is the last step in making needlelace.  It binds the beginnings and endings of the lace filling threads to the cordonnet, and binds the cordonnet to itself, ensuring that the lace won't come apart.  It also makes a neat and smooth finish for the lace. The difference in quality between #228 and 794 left (on the one hand), and the maple leaf 233 below is help I received from experts on my NEEDLELACETALK network. http://needlelacetalk.ning.com
oth147 LH	Working needlelace is about juxtaposing density and textural differences in a beautiful and balanced way.

I show my samplers and early pieces to encourage others.  With practice and good advice one can really make progress at this form of lace.

Needle lace made by LH  oth227  This is my first piece,  made in an effort to understand the working method of needle lace.	Oak Leaf oth217 Double Brussels, single Brussels, corded single Brussels    LH	Elm Leaf oth218 My third needle lace motif.  Worked in 20/2 linen. Same stitches. LH	Maple Leaf oth223 Double Brussels, whipped single Brussels, attempts at decorative holes, needlewoven stem. Threads Kulort Lingarn 16/2 as outline threads, HV Garn 40/2 as lace thread (no longer manufactured). oth223              LH	Maple leaf oth233 pearl 5 as outline thread, Anchor broder cotton #25 as lace thread. Corded single Brussels (vein is twisted Brussels), double Brussels, single Brussels. oth 233  LH  I used a real maple leaf as the pattern.
needlelace flower oth236 Corded Brussels, treble Brussels, pea stitch, pea stitch variation.	needle lace leaf spray oth 200. My original design. Corded Brussels & 4 variants of pea stitch.  LH	Needlelace flower, pattern from Nenia Lovesey, worked in Cordonnet #30. Single Brussels, twisted buttonhole, whipped twisted buttonhole, pea stitch, double Brussels, corded Brussels.

needle lace 626

Made by Jennifer Audsley, from Grimwood's book.  She says "The little flower pattern is from Valerie Grimwood's book STARTING NEEDLEPOINT LACE - A COURSE FOR BEGINNERS.   I had no experience with lacemaking at all, just got the book and had a go".  Her first attempt is much better than mine!

The work of other beginners:

 Here see the work of another beginner who is doing  very well, Lenore English:       http://tatt3r-lace.blogspot.com/

Another very good beginner's attempt: from Stefania Bressan:  http://www.angolostefania.it/aemilia.php

An original design for a sampler of stitches, showing stages in the working: 

 http://worksofhands.wordpress.com/2010/01/30/more-trees-winter/

Another beginner's work:  http://www.myrriah.com/?tag=needlelace

The group below were made by Alix Hengen-Muhlen of Luxembourg after passing the beginner's phase.

  Learn needle lace, and then make a piece like Alix's.  #773    

   779   778      780      781        775 

Learn needle lace with online lessons (needle lace tutorials online):

This one has a free pattern:  http://www.needlework-tips-and-techniques.com/starting-needlepoint-lace.html  very good

http://textiledreamer.wordpress.com/needlepoint-lace-tutorial/   exceptionally good

This one has a free pattern, diagrams of how to lay cordonnet, and stitch diagrams:  http://lacemaking-needlelacer.blogspot.com/

In French, with good pictures:   http://petitcoeuramoi.over-blog.com/pages/COURS_7_BRODERIE_DENTELLE_AIGUILLE-971489.html

http://petitcoeuramoi.over-blog.com/categorie-10713358.html

The last section of this one shows successive stages of working a very simple practice piece; it gives the general idea of the process.    http://www.craftster.org/forum/index.php?topic=95026.0

I recently started a needle lace social network on Ning.    http://needlelacetalk.ning.com/       Come look and join us. Beginners can post questions and get answers from experts.  For specific advice, see     http://needlelacetalk.ning.com/group/beginners    and read all the posts and discussions.

Ideas for small learning projects made into brooches:   http://merlettoadago.blogspot.com/

Needle Lace Free Patterns:   There are some internet sources for free patterns.  You will have to hunt a little through these.

http://www.needlenthread.com/2009/04/needle-lace-easter-egg-free-pattern.html

http://encyclopediaofneedlework.com/books.html   I did see some simple motif patterns for Venetian style needle lace.

http://www.cs.arizona.edu/patterns/weaving/books.html   Look for Dillmont.  The booklets on needle lace and reticella have a few patterns.  Also look for  these 2 books available as pdf downloads which contain patterns/photos of simple geometric laces which might be used as beginners patterns for basic needlelace or aemilia ars.    

• Hardouin ALBUM DE DENTELLE DE VENISE   &   
• Cleofe Mingarelli Ricci DISEGNI DI TRAFORI I PUNTO IN ARIA.     Both have a lot of possible beginners patterns.

See also the needlelacetalk network, which has an album of needlelace patterns.

Needle lace stitches:  The entire DMC ENCYCLOPEDIA is available online for viewing and part  as a free download.  It contains a large section of needlelace stitches.  It places them in the context of Battenberg type tape laces.  But the stitches are the same, whether used in Battenberg or true needlelace.

http://encyclopediaofneedlework.com/books.html   The stitch diagrams are in the Irish lace chapter.

The following has downloadable sections of the DMC Encyclopedia:

http://www.cs.arizona.edu/patterns/weaving/books.html  

• Look for Dillmont.  Also
• Mizi Donner (on the same list) has a similar book to the DMC Enclopedia, but in German.  A different set of illustrations might be useful.  Look for part II, filename dm2_lace_2.pdf.

http://arrienne-lace.com/stitches.htm

General information on needlelace online:

Arachne also has many members involved in needle lace, instructions for joining  here:      http://www.arachne.com/list_instructions.html

http://refalo.com/blog/handwork/needlelace/&usg=__q7sbjQUY_4bCnUVWgZG_9A_ntR4=&h=160&w=99&sz=8&hl=en&start=111&um=1&tbnid=1gkAD6OchsbyXM:&tbnh=98&tbnw=61&prev=/images%3Fq%3D%2522pulled%2Bthread%2Bembroidery%2522%26start%3D100%26ndsp%3D20%26um%3D1%26hl%3Den%26lr%3D%26sa%3DN

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/User:Shardsofblue/Needle_Lace

http://www.guildofneedlelaces.org/  

http://refalo.com/blog/handwork/needlelace/reticella-lace/

For help and advice consult books by Irma Osterman, a nationally known needlelace teacher and writer.    Irma says, "Recently I have been teaching the fine old traditional needle laces:  Gros Point, Point de Gaze, Point d'Alençon and Youghal. "  A few years ago she self published a book on Youghal needle lace, and in 2003 she self published her second book, LACE MADE WITH A NEEDLE, a book for beginners.   It was written for  those who wish to learn needle lace, but do not live near a teacher.  It has 46 pages of text with patterns and photos (2 pages in color) and examples of work done by students..  The basic construction and stitches are explained in words and diagrams as well as new ideas for lace.  The more advanced can find the book useful especially the three pages of Frequently Asked Questions which occur regularly in her classes.    The regular lace dealers of IOLI carry it.   Irma reports that she is now ready to start another book with advanced stitches used in the great traditional laces:  Point de Gaze, Point d'Alençon and Gros Point.  Since needle lace developed from embroidery, Irma has many students who come from a background in embroidery, and who then excel at needlelace.    Irma may be able to help you find a near-by needle lace teacher.  She is currently the needlelace editor for the International Old Lacers Bulletin, and wrote a series of articles for it on needlelace technique.

Nancy Evans is another well-known American needlelace teacher.

The books list and comments are suggestions from Alix Hengen, Elizabeth Ligeti, Ilske Thomsen, and Lenore English.

Valerie Grimwood STARTING NEEDLEPOINT LACE - A COURSE FOR BEGINNERS  .  ISBN 0-7134-5806-2 Batsford.  This is really just a beginners book, nicely done but you will need a better one pretty soon.  This is considered a very good beginner's book in English, an alternative to the Guild of Needle Laces pamphlets.

Lenore English says: "I have found the Basic Technical Instruction Book [below] to be very helpful, with good diagrams and pictures of the finished projects. The projects are arranged in increasing order of difficulty, and I have ample opportunity to practice my stitches."  Available from   http://www.guildofneedlelaces.org/Sales.html    and they take Paypal. 

For photos of many pieces made from this booklet:

http://stitchinfingers.ning.com/photo/album/listForOwner?screenName=3dc2jiyubp1x6

Catherine Barley, NEEDLELACE: DESIGN AND TECHNIQUES, CLASSIC AND CONTEMPORARY, 1993, reprinted 2001.  A very good book.  This is the one most often recommended as an intermediate level book, to follow the Guild of Needle Laces or Grimwood.  Detailed and complete instructions for some gros point, hollie point and point de gaze pieces, as well as some patterns.

Pat Earnshaw NEEDLELACE , Merehurst, London, 1991 ISBN 1 85391 158 5    She explains the historical development of needle laces and their progression from Point de France to Point de Sedan to Alencon, Argentan, Argentella and reseau Venise.  Stitch diagrams and enlarged samples of stitches typical of these various styles.  Many examples of complex circles and hexagons used in these antique laces.  Many spacing variants of twisted buttonhole.   Having read her book I now have a better understanding of how needle lace history parallels bobbin lace history.  Some patterns for modern use of the old techniques.

Irma Osterman, LACE MADE WITH A NEEDLE, 2003 self published.

Irma Osterman YOUGHAL: A CHARMING IRISH NEEDLELACE

Nenia Lovesey, THE TECHNIQUE OF NEEDLEPOINT LACE, 1980.

Nenia Lovesey, CREATIVE DESIGN IN NEEDLEPOINT LACE, 1983.

N. Lovesey, INTRODUCTION TO NEEDLEPOINT LACE, 1985.  I personally think this is her best, for the clarity a beginner needs.

N. Lovesey & Catherine Barley, VENETIAN GROS POINT LACE., 1986.

Jill Nordfors, NEEDLE LACE & NEEDLEWEAVING, 1974.  Mostly she is showing how to add sections of needlelace onto the surface of the cloth, as part of surface embroidery.  She doesn't really explain how true needlelace is made (cordonnet, etc.)  But there are a lot of stitches and many examples of the modern use of needlelace stitches.

Jill Nordfors Clark has another book out NEEDLE LACE TECHNIQUES AND INSPIRATION  1999.

La Dentelle à l'aiguille by Brigitte Delesques Dépalles.  ISBN2 902894 97 X Ed. Créér.  This book has more stitches, some very typically from Argentan and Alençon, a nice history of needlelace seen from the French side and a few patterns.

Nadelspitze alte Technik neue Muster by T. Mathes.  ISBN 3-926923-12-1 E. Winter Verlag.  This book has as many stitches as the French one but different ones, in large diagrams.  It has a very modern approach with some ideas for small modern pieces.

Pat Earnshaw YOUGHAL LACE - THE CRAFT AND THE CREAM (covers techniques and history)

There is also a video (I haven't seen it) by Carol Williamson.

  Abbreviations        Compare           Lace Terminology     Bobbin Lace Introduction          

Contact me at      lhalley@bytemeusa.com   

August 16, 2010