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Needlelace, also called punto in aria, is made of button hole stitch (and its variants) without any permanent fabric foundation at all.   To recapitulate the working sequence for needlelace:

1.    Prepare the 3 layer sandwich/scaffolding of 2 layers of cloth plus the paper pattern.

2.  Couch the cordonnet to the 3 layer sandwich/scaffold.  Look closely at the junctions of the cordonnet in the two photos below (view them at 200% to see all the detail) to see different ways of connecting the cordonnet to itself.  You can easily see that the cordonnet is doubled.  Follow the cordonnet to each intersection to see how it is hooked to itself in many places.  This is necessary to ensure the stability of the whole piece after it is cut off the temporary backing. 

Needlelace in process.

Another photo of the cutting-away process:  http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_3xZqi2D5BNI/SwVquvGZVPI/AAAAAAAABl4/YWD6u8Zs9ts/s1600/blog20091119b.jpg

3.  To start filling areas begin by wrapping the lace thread around the cordonnet for about an inch.  Some start a row by wrapping and then making one coral knot stitch with the lace thread, on the cordonnet, to keep it from slipping.

4.  Work successive rows of the chosen filling.  Make sure you never run out of thread in the middle of a row.

5.  End the row by wrapping the ending tail around the cordonnet.  Some lacemakers recommend ending by using a coral knot stitch to attach the lace thread to the cordonnet, and then wrapping the tail around the cordonnet.

6. Once all the fillings, bars & brides have been made work close buttonholing over the cordonnet with the stitches very close together.  This permanently locks the beginning and ending tails of the lace thread so they can't unravel.  It locks everything together so the lace can't come apart.  It is really an ingenious method.

7. Slide scissors between the 2 layers of cloth and cut the basting stitches.  The lace will then lift off the pattern.  Pick out the little basting threads where you can see them.

In addition to the 3 layer sandwich, some needle lace workers attach the sandwich to a cylindrical pillow.  Those who use this method say it allows them to use both hands to guide the thread, since the pillow is held in the lap not in the hand.  Most workers who like this methods seem to prefer a hard bolster about 8-10  inches long and about 6-7 inches in diameter. 

See for photo:  http://lace.lacefairy.com/Lace/PillowsBobbins/NeedlelacePillow.html   A bolster can be made out of a large coffee can or oatmeal box.  See also    http://stitchinfingers.ning.com/photo/blog20100202d-1?context=user 

Needle lace in process: 

http://api.ning.com/files/n43S6yDSibkoI*ODtYqWm6Xuk8*86fCLJD*qxFGVLBiSSKbU9iumielwCkMwkjdAlFFJVpKRmPz7wHnn-4WQcQWX7PF8yT92/evocipke.jpg

Needle lace sampler 228 LH

794 LH

My attempts to learn needle lace.  My first needlelace samplers:  messy stitches, and a tension problem I hadn't yet solved.  But this gives an idea of the different densities which can be achieved by just switching between different variants of the buttonhole stitch. All the stitches used in the actual lace are buttonhole stitches, many many variants of buttonhole stitches.  Different spacings, whether or not twists are added, exactly where you put the needle, all produce markedly different textures and densities.  Working needlelace is about juxtaposing density and textural differences in a beautiful and balanced way.  You can also see the close buttonholing covering the cordonnet.  That is the last step in making needlelace.  It binds the beginning and endings of the lace filling threads to the cordonnet, and binds the cordonnet to itself, ensuring that the lace won't come apart.  It also makes a neat and smooth finish for the lace.

Needle lace made by LH  227

This is my first piece,  made in an effort to understand the working method of needle lace.  Alas, I'll never become an expert; it would take a large amount of practice time to improve my technique to a reasonable level.  But I show the samplers and this piece to encourage others: anybody who can surpass my miserable technique can make needle lace.

626

Made by Jennifer Audsley, from Grimwold's book.  She says "The little flower pattern is from Valerie Grimwood's book STARTING NEEDLEPOINT LACE - A COURSE FOR BEGINNERS.   I had no experience with lacemaking at all, just got the book and had a go".  Her first attempt is much better than mine!

The work of other beginners:

 Here see the work of another beginner who is doing  very well, Lenore English:       http://tatt3r-lace.blogspot.com/

Another very good beginner's attempt: from Stefania Bressan:  http://www.angolostefania.it/aemilia.php

An original design for a sampler of stitches, showing stages in the working: 

 http://worksofhands.wordpress.com/2010/01/30/more-trees-winter/

Another beginner's work:  http://www.myrriah.com/?tag=needlelace

The group below were made by Alix Hengen-Muhlen of Luxembourg after passing the beginner's phase.

  Learn needle lace, and then make a piece like Alix's.  #773    

   779   778      780      781        775 

Needle Lace Free Patterns:   There are some internet sources for free patterns.  You will have to hunt a little through these.

http://www.needlenthread.com/2009/04/needle-lace-easter-egg-free-pattern.html

http://encyclopediaofneedlework.com/books.html   I did see some simple motif patterns for Venetian style needle lace.

http://www.cs.arizona.edu/patterns/weaving/books.html   Look for Dillmont.  The booklets on needle lace and reticella have a few patterns.  Also look for  these 2 books available as pdf downloads which contain patterns/photos of simple geometric laces which might be used as beginners patterns for basic needlelace or aemilia ars.     Hardouin ALBUM DE DENTELLE DE VENISE   &    Cleofe Mingarelli Ricci DISEGNI DI TRAFORI I PUNTO IN ARIA.     Both have a lot of possible beginners patterns.

Learn needle lace with online lessons (needle lace tutorials online):

This one has a free pattern:  http://www.needlework-tips-and-techniques.com/starting-needlepoint-lace.html 

http://textiledreamer.wordpress.com/needlepoint-lace-tutorial/

This one has diagrams of how to lay cordonnet, and stitch diagrams:  http://lacemaking-needlelacer.blogspot.com/

In French, with good pictures:   http://petitcoeuramoi.over-blog.com/pages/COURS_7_BRODERIE_DENTELLE_AIGUILLE-971489.html

http://petitcoeuramoi.over-blog.com/categorie-10713358.html

http://www.craftster.org/forum/index.php?topic=95026.0

I recently started a needle lace social network on Ning.    http://needlelacetalk.ning.com/       Come look and join us. Beginners can post questions and get answers from experts.

Needle lace stitches:  The entire DMC ENCYCLOPEDIA is available online for viewing and part  as a free download.  It contains a large section of needlelace stitches.  It places them in the context of Battenberg type tape laces.  But the stitches are the same, whether used in Battenberg or true needlelace.

http://encyclopediaofneedlework.com/books.html

The following has downloadable sections of the DMC Encyclopedia:

http://www.cs.arizona.edu/patterns/weaving/books.html   Look for Dillmont.  Also Mizi Donner (on the same list) has a similar book to the DMC Enclopedia, but in German.  A different set of illustrations might be useful.  Look for part II, filename dm2_lace_2.pdf.

http://arrienne-lace.com/stitches.htm

General information on needlelace online:

Arachne also has many members involved in needle lace, instructions for joining  here:      http://www.arachne.com/list_instructions.html

http://refalo.com/blog/handwork/needlelace/&usg=__q7sbjQUY_4bCnUVWgZG_9A_ntR4=&h=160&w=99&sz=8&hl=en&start=111&um=1&tbnid=1gkAD6OchsbyXM:&tbnh=98&tbnw=61&prev=/images%3Fq%3D%2522pulled%2Bthread%2Bembroidery%2522%26start%3D100%26ndsp%3D20%26um%3D1%26hl%3Den%26lr%3D%26sa%3DN

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/User:Shardsofblue/Needle_Lace

http://www.guildofneedlelaces.org/  

http://refalo.com/blog/handwork/needlelace/reticella-lace/

For help and advice contact Irma Osterman, a nationally known needlelace teacher and writer:  irma.osterman@comcast.net    Irma says, "Recently I have been teaching the fine old traditional needle laces:  Gros Point, Point de Gaze, Point d'Alençon and Youghal. "  A few years ago she self published a book on Youghal needle lace, and in 2003 she self published her second book, LACE MADE WITH A NEEDLE, a book for beginners.   It was written for  those who wish to learn needle lace, but do not live near a teacher.  It has 46 pages of text with patterns and photos (2 pages in color) and examples of work done by students..  The basic construction and stitches are explained in words and diagrams as well as new ideas for lace.  The more advanced can find the book useful especially the three pages of Frequently Asked Questions which occur regularly in her classes.    The regular lace dealers of IOLI carry it.   Irma reports that she is now ready to start another book with advanced stitches used in the great traditional laces:  Point de Gaze, Point d'Alençon and Gros Point.  Since needle lace developed from embroidery, Irma has many students who come from a background in embroidery, and who then excel at needlelace.    Irma may be able to help you find a near-by needle lace teacher.  She is currently the needlelace editor for the International Old Lacers Bulletin.  

Books:

The books list and comments are suggestions from Alix Hengen, Elizabeth Ligeti, Ilske Thomsen, and Lenore English.

Valerie Grimwood STARTING NEEDLEPOINT LACE - A COURSE FOR BEGINNERS  .  ISBN 0-7134-5806-2 Batsford.  This is really just a beginners book, nicely done but you will need a better one pretty soon.

Lenore English says: "I have found the Basic Technical Instruction Book [below] to be very helpful, with good diagrams and pictures of the finished projects. The projects are arranged in increasing order of difficulty, and I have ample opportunity to practice my stitches."  Available from   http://www.guildofneedlelaces.org/Sales.html    and they take Paypal.  The first is also available from Holly VanSciver.

For photos of many pieces made from this booklet:

http://stitchinfingers.ning.com/photo/album/listForOwner?screenName=3dc2jiyubp1x6

Irma Osterman, LACE MADE WITH A NEEDLE, 2003 self published.

Nenia Lovesey, THE TECHNIQUE OF NEEDLEPOINT LACE, 1980.

N. Lovesey, INTRODUCTION TO NEEDLEPOINT LACE, 1985.

Catherine Barley, NEEDLELACE: DESIGN AND TECHNIQUES, CLASSIC AND CONTEMPORARY, 1993, reprinted 2001.  A very good book.

Jill Nordfors, NEEDLE LACE & NEEDLEWEAVING, 1974.  Mostly she is showing how to add sections of needlelace onto the surface of the cloth, as part of surface embroidery.  She doesn't really explain how true needlelace is made (cordonnet, etc.)  But there are a lot of stitches and many examples of the modern use of needlelace stitches.

Jill Nordfors Clark has another book out NEEDLE LACE TECHNIQUES AND INSPIRATION  1999.

La Dentelle à l'aiguille by Brigitte Delesques Dépalles.  ISBN2 902894 97 X Ed. Créér.  This book has more stitches, some very typically from Argentan and Alençon, a nice history of needlelace seen from the French side and a few patterns.

Nadelspitze alte Technik neue Muster by T. Mathes.  ISBN 3-926923-12-1 E. Winter Verlag.  This book has as many stitches as the French one but different ones, in large diagrams.  It has a very modern approach with some ideas for small modern pieces.

Pat Earnshaw NEEDLELACE , Merehurst, London, 1991 ISBN 1 85391 158 5
She  explains the equipment, and goes step by step with the stitches and so on. Good  pictures.  She explains 
Point de France with about 12 stitches, and also Point de Sedan and other  old laces. 

Nenia Lovesey, CREATIVE DESIGN IN NEEDLEPOINT LACE, 1983.

N. Lovesey & Catherine Barley, VENETIAN GROS POINT LACE., 1986.

Irma Osterman YOUGHAL: A CHARMING IRISH NEEDLELACE

Pat Earnshaw YOUGHAL LACE - THE CRAFT AND THE CREAM (covers techniques and history)

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