Laces Made on a Handmade Scaffolding:
Filet Lacis and Sol Laces/Tenerife
(Filet Lace and Teneriffe)
© 2009 Lorelei Halley
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These are laces made on a handmade scaffolding of threads. Filet (also called filet lace, lacis, guipure d'art, filet lacis) is made on a square mesh knotted net. It can be made in the round, but this is rare. Tenerife (Sol Lace, Nanduti, nhanduti, Teneriffe) is made on a framework laid down like the spokes of a wheel. Individual motifs are mostly round, but can be square or hexagonal.
Filet Lacis (sometimes called filet lace or filet guipure) is made on a square mesh knotted net. * It is the oldest form of lace, and samples exist from Egyptian tombs. The knotted net is made the same way an old time fisherman's net was made, it is just much finer, smaller in scale. Nowadays we are told it is possible to produce the same net by machine, and one can purchase yardage at reasonable cost (a sure indication that it is not handmade). The net used must have a knot at each intersection of 2 threads.
|This basic net is then decorated by a stitch which imitates the
weave of cloth, or by darning stitch.
This site has lessons for a fee: http://www.knotsindeed.com/
|It is possible to make the basic net in rounds, to make a round mat, but
this is less common. 246 c/o MFB
How to make diamond mesh for a round mat:
Making the knot square and diamond: http://www.finniwig.com/netinst.htm
|367 c/o BH Another piece worked in rounds.|
|Some amazing filet worked in rounds: http://www.filetintondo.net/galleria/ She also has a tutorial.|
The group below are all decorated with cloth weaving stitch (also called toile):
277 c/o JL
316 c/o JL 294 c/o JL
313 c/o JL 312 c/o JL 311 u
c/o JL 323 241 c/o MFB 314 c/o JL
This next group shows layered effects with decorations on top of the weaving stitch.
By Grace Lister:
743 c/o LH This is the reverse side.
243 c/o MFB 245 c/o MFB
Links to filet lacis tutorials, suppliers, basics:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AggNztFWBuU Very good, very slow instructions on how to make the mesh.
http://www.knotsindeed.com/ Contains lots of instructions for a fee.
Basic instructions for embroidery on square net.
http://www.finniwig.com/netinst.htm Making the knots
http://lace.lacefairy.com/Lace/ID/FiletID.html This shows working setup.
http://www.filetlace.net/products This one is a supplier of knotted net, tools, books, kits.
Photos of individual pieces:
281 c/o JL 235 c/o MFB
783 c/o LBJ
Links to Tenerife (Teneriffe), Nanduti (nhanduti), Sol lace:
Another working setup: http://www.nandutilace.com/theprocess.html
More sol laces.
A 9 minute video showing working methods: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a_w5nyzvcj4&feature=related
And another: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YDJAk6nQnDQ
This has a video showing nanduti in process, including the cutting away of the cloth backing:
This one has lots of different motifs, books, tools, many spectacular South American pieces:
A photo of Nanduti in process:
Individual pieces: http://www.flickr.com/photos/25441481@N07/6037707616/sizes/l/in/contacts/ and http://www.flickr.com/photos/25441481@N07/6037157265/sizes/o/in/contacts/
Learn How to Make Teneriffe and find free patterns:
Alexandra Stillwell's book on tenerife is available as a free download, and the the DMC Encyclopedia also has a chapter on it. Both are available from the same source and both contain patterns: http://www.cs.arizona.edu/patterns/weaving/books.html
Stillwell, Alexandra. The Technique of Teneriffe Lace, Charles T. Branford, Watertown, Mass , 1980, 149 pages. Note: with permission from the author. Posted May 20, 2009. SAMPLE PAGE.CONTENTS. REVIEW. File size 11.9MB PDF
Dillmont, Thérèse de. Dentelle Ténériffe [ Teneriffe Lace], Bibliotheque DMC, April 1931, 41 pages. Posted January 11, 2007. SAMPLE PAGE. REVIEW. File size 7.4 MB PDF
Kinds of Lace
Pulled Thread Work Hardanger Drawn Thread Work Embroidery on Net Battenberg
Needlelace Bobbin Lace
Also see http://needlelacetalk.ning.com/group/filetlacis and http://needlelacetalk.ning.com/group/sollaces
Last revised December, 2011