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  Laces Made on a Handmade Scaffolding:
  Filet Lacis and Tenerife

  © 2009 Lorelei Halley

 

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These are laces made on a handmade scaffolding  of threads.  Filet (also called lacis, guipure d'art, filet lacis) is made on a square mesh knotted net.  It can be made in the round, but this is rare.  Tenerife (Sol Lace, Nanduti, nhanduti, Teneriffe) is made on a framework laid down like the spokes of a wheel.  Individual motifs are mostly round, but can be square or hexagonal.

Filet Lacis (sometimes called filet guipure) is made on a square mesh knotted net.  It is the oldest form of lace, and samples exist from Egyptian tombs.  The knotted net is made the same way an old time fisherman's net was made, it is just much finer, smaller in scale.   Nowadays we are told it is possible to produce the same net by machine, and one can purchase yardage at reasonable cost (a sure indication that it is not handmade).  The net used must have a knot at each intersection of 2 threads.

This basic net is then decorated by a stitch which imitates the weave of cloth, or by darning stitch.
It is possible to make the basic net in rounds, to make a round mat, but this is less common.    246 c/o MFB
   367 c/o BH  Another piece worked in rounds.

The group below are all decorated with cloth weaving stitch (also called toile):

  filet lace  277  c/o JL             

 316 c/o JL  294 c/o JL

 313 c/o JL filet lacis 312 c/o JL         311 u

 lacis   c/o JL 323   241  c/o MFB  314 c/o JL

 

These two show both weaving stitch and darning stitch.  The darning stitch shows as whiter and more dense.

 618  c/o JS         620 c/o JS

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This next group shows layered effects with decorations on top of the weaving stitch.

By Grace Lister:

675 GL

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By others:

  743 c/o LH    This is the reverse side.

 242  c/o MFB   238   c/o MFB   315  c/o JL
     243 c/o MFB    245 c/o MFB

Links to filet lacis:
http://www.finniwig.com/netinst.htm 
http://leafyseadragonfestival.com/events_Encounter_Lacemakers.html 

http://www.flickr.com/photos/mrelia/2362163306/
http://www.themissingpiece.com/ggn/learnedpics/lacis.gif 
http://www.filetlace.net/products
http://www.flickr.com/photos/24956365@N03/3402987789/    http://www.flickr.com/photos/24956365@N03/3402987759/
http://www.filetlace.net/history 
http://www.flickr.com/photos/inwiththeoldvintage/3700152737/
http://lace.lacefairy.com/Lace/ID/FiletID.html 
http://www.needlepointers.com/ShowArticles.aspx?NavID=1979 
http://www.bildindex.de/bilder/MI11904e10a.jpg
http://www.bildindex.de/bilder/MI11904e09a.jpg 




Tenerife and Nhanduti are both forms of sol lace.  This type is made on a wheel form in which the spokes are laid threads.  It may be an outgrowth of the very complex corner designs in elaborate double drawn thread work. Large pieces are made up of small motifs stitched together, usually using coral knot.  Round shapes are the most common, but hexagons and squares also occur.


These show the simplest structure, beginners' test samples.

 

  787 c/o IT      325  m/b LH     633 Last 2 m/b LH

 

These below are more typical of good work.
 
tenerife lace            282 c/o JL

 

  sol lace     281 c/o JL             235 c/o MFB

        324 c/o JL

         783 c/o LBJ

Links to Tenerife (Teneriffe), Nanduti (nhanduti), Sol lace:

http://rendatenerife.blogspot.com/

http://nhanduti.blogspot.com/

 This one has lots of different motifs, books, tools, many spectacular South American pieces: 

 http://www.fioretombolo.net/merletto%20di%20Teneriffe.htm

http://www.ladentelledupuy.com/zoom.php?fichier=1204101296_NAPPEREPORT2.jpg&doss=fichiers_reportage_-_uk

http://www.ladentelledupuy.com/zoom.php?fichier=1204101296_napperon_couleur_site.jpg&doss=fichiers_reportage_-_uk

http://www.ladentelledupuy.com/zoom.php?fichier=1204101296_napperonblanc.jpg&doss=fichiers_reportage_-_uk

http://renyangela.multiply.com/photos/album/225/225

A photo of Nanduti in process:     

http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_nnszFqpkhYY/SrU5WFPikoI/AAAAAAAAA-Y/EU8pyPj90x0/s1600-h/vilaflor5.jpg

 Individual pieces:         http://www.tias.com/stores/ahac/thumbs/cla115a.jpg

Learn How to Make Teneriffe and find free patterns:

Alexandra Stillwell's book on tenerife is available as a free download, and the the DMC Encyclopedia also has a chapter on it.  Both are available from the same source and both contain patterns:      http://www.cs.arizona.edu/patterns/weaving/books.html

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