lynxlace.com 

  Hardanger Tutorial

  © 2009 Lorelei Halley   

   Site Map      Hardanger Embroidery     My Hardanger      Hardanger Gallery    My Hardanger Small Mats & Bookmarks  

   Bobbin Lace Introduction       Needle Lace Introduction         Pulled Thread Work       My Books & Patterns For Sale   

 

WATCH THIS SPACE -- UNDER CONSTRUCTION

---------------------------

Basting Lines in Hardanger:

I find it useful to put in basting lines in Hardanger as I start a project.   Using a contrasting thread color I carefully count threads as I sew, making each stitch exactly 4 threads tall (if I am using the 5 stitches over 4 threads system).  I lay in basting lines down the center vertically and horizontally.  If I am working a large complicated project I may put in more basting lines.  I then use the stitches to help me count where I should start stitching and how to space the motifs relative to each other.  It does slow me down when starting a project, but it prevents the severe aggravation that happens when you discover that you have stitched 3/4 of the piece incorrectly, or that the parts don't match up as they should.

I developed my own kind of diagram code for Hardanger, and I realize it is not in accordancewith the most common system.   In mine, each square on the paper equals 4 x 4 threads of fabric (for the 5 stitches over 4 threads system).  Each square outlined in blue is one kloster block of 5 stitches over 4 threads of the cloth. The little hatch marks inside the blue square show the direction that the stitches must lie.  The orange L shaped lines are where you cut.  The reddish pink large dots are eyelets.  The yellow lines are where fabric threads are left after cutting: this is where you do either needle weaving or overcasting on the bars.   If you look at the diagram below, you can see that the central motif has 20x20 fabric threads inside it, and the exact center is an empty square.  You can see how the basting lines lie in the 1st photo and relate them to the diagram. 

Next look for how to situate the first kloster block for the diagonal line of kloster blocks.  The diagram shows 3 empty squares between the top of the central unit and the bottom of the first kloster.  The 3rd image in the row below shows 3 stitch lengths unworked.  This is easier to count than 12 threads.  And if you look at where the needle is parked in image 3, you can see that I was checking to make sure the block I was just about to begin would be positioned correctly.  It should start 1/2 square (equals 2 threads) off the central line.  Compare image 4 to the diagram and you will see how I used the basting stitches to position the parts of the design.

  Hardanger basting lines    Hardanger #86 diagram    Hardanger basting lines    Hardanger basting lines  Hardanger 86  in process.

Hardanger 86  Hardanger 86                      

-------------------------------

Hardanger 120    In the row below, my design starts with the common 8 point star smack in the center of the mat. Hardanger basting lines, coming up for 1st stitch Hardanger #120 diagram  
This row shows how to position the first point of the central star in the design. 1st stitch of 1st point on star beginning 2nd lobe of star
rotate the work to start the 2nd lobe I am just beginning the 3rd point of the star.      
Here I am beginning the first kloster block  Move to next motif by the way easiest to count. Now I am moving from the 1st block to the 2nd kloster block. starting 2nd kloster block When you come around to the basting line again, check to be sure the last block is the right distance from the basting.
Find the easiest way to count to get to the next motif. Here I am beginning the tulip at the corner.      

 

---------------------------

Hardanger Lace Fillings:

Below are some of the ways to decorate the cut out areas of Hardanger motifs.  The first row shows basic ways to reinforce the fabric threads that remain after the cutting is done.  The second row shows the simplest, most common fillings.  I will add more as I discover them and work samples.

1

fabric bars		 needle woven bars needle woven bars with loop picots needle woven bars with post stitch picots uneven woven bars overcast bars
2

simple fillings		 dove's eye square filet dove's eye with post stitch picots lacey filling  

Rows 3 thru 9 below show fillings based on twisted bars put in with a needle.  There are 1, 2 or 3 bars, crossed bars, and branched bars.  Then additional layers of needle fillings can be worked on top of or incorporating the twisted bars.

3

one twisted bar		 1 twisted bar 1 twisted bar with web 1 twisted bar with web 1 twisted bar with backstitched web  
4

one twisted bar plus		 festoon filling uses 1 twisted bar festoon with web   twisted bar with buttonholed bar crossing it  
5

2 twisted bars		 2 twisted bars 2 twisted bars with web 2 bars woven    
6

three twisted bars		 3 twisted bars 3 bars with web 3 twisted bars woven    
7

4 twisted bars		          
8

crossed twisted bars		 crossed bars crossed bars with small webs crossed bars with small webs and large web circle filling lies on top of crossed bars  
9

branched bars		 branched bars facing outward branched bars with small webs branched bars with small webs & large web branched bars facing inward  

The fabric threads left after cutting can be divided and then reinforced with overcasting or needleweaving.  And there are certain fillings which use these divided bars as a base.

10

divided fabric bars		 divided woven bars divided overcast bars divided woven bars with dove's eye divided woven bars with branched bars  
11

more divided fabric bars		 divided overcast bars with Maltese cross divided overcast bars with Maltese cross      

12

other fillings		 buttonholed ring woven square      

These fillings below must have at least 9 empty squares and at least 20 fabric threads to work on.

13

fillings for 20 thread unit
 woven 3/4 web blanket stitch flower      

I will add more fillings as I find them and work examples.

---------------------------

Contact me at     lhalley@bytemeusa.com