for those who love handmade lace
Learn Lace Making
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© 2009 Lorelei Halley
All rights reserved.
This website is for those who love to make lace, who want to learn lace making, or who love to collect lace. Special emphasis goes to bobbin lace, my specialty, but also to needle lace, pulled thread work and Hardanger embroidery. You will find descriptions of the working methods of many forms of hand made lace, and lessons for bobbinlace, needle lace, pulled thread embroidery (also called drawn fabric embroidery) and Hardanger embroidery. I have included information on books for needlelace, as well as links to a few tutorials. There are many photos of antique lace, and of laces made by living lace makers, or designed by living lace designers. For those interested in lace identification, my aim is to increase your understanding of the structure of the various laces, and thereby increase your enjoyment of the objects you love. This is a new and updated version of my old website loreleihalley.com. Below find a complete list of all the pages in this website, with a brief description of the contents of each page.
Nearly all the photos on this website have been taken by me using a film camera, more recent ones with a digital camera. Many close-ups of small pieces were scanned in. Some, about 5%, are digital files passed to me over the internet by the photographer, and used with their permission. None are from books. The range of photos reflects the contents of personal lace collections of people I know personally. (The abbreviation c/o means "from the collection of".) Only a very few had laces in their collections which were really old -- prior to 1800. I encountered some of the oldest laces seen here very early in my attempts at photography, before I had macro capabilities. So I don't have close-ups of the oldest pieces, much to my sorrow.
All the images immediately visible on these pages are thumbnails: small reduced versions to make loading faster. To see the whole image in all its glory, click wherever you see a hand. But many of the pages have large numbers of thumbnails and are slow to load, even so. Please be patient. Also you may want to see a much enlarged version of some images (the detail is really there). You can achieve this easily in Internet Explorer by looking for the PAGE button on the Explorer bar (right side just above the image). Click on PAGE, then on ZOOM and view the files at 200%. You can then see each thread (in many, but not all, photos).
Lace Identification -- different techniques and methods of lacemaking *
To Order my books and patterns
About Specific Laces
Abbreviations: abbreviations used in labels on photos, names of contributors, authors, designers, photo sources
Bobbin lace c. 1710. Bobbinlace: learn bobbinlace. Czech bobbin lace - 19th c *
Bobbin Lace: With the history pages, please be patient. Some have a lot of photos and even thumbnails need time to load.
Bobbin lace identification (the first 2 pages): *
Two Structural Classes: Straight lace (continuous lace) and Part lace (sectional lace, also called free lace or freeform lace). Also structural distinctions between regional/period styles of bobbin lace.
Historical Overview: Bobbin lace history. Brief description of stylistic trends across centuries
Antique bobbin laces:
1559-1700 The early phase, very few pieces survive outside museums
Pottenkant/Milanese Pottenkant, Milanese tape lace or Flemish tape lace, spans period c. 1650-c. 1850
18th century (c. 1700 - c. 1790 up to Napoleonic)
Napoleonic era c. 1790 - c. 1820
19th Straight Bar 1820s through late 19th c Straight Bar Grounded Laces
19th Straight Mesh 1820s through late 19th c Straight Mesh Grounded Laces
19th Part Lace 1820s through late 19th c Part/Sectional Laces
Vintage bobbin laces:
Revival era part laces: late 19th - early 20th century
Revival era straight laces: late 19th - early 20th century
Modern bobbin laces: *
New Revival Era: lace by living lace makers and living designers
Christmas Trees: Two free patterns for Christmas cards designed and donated by Ilske Thomsen of Hamburg
Harz: a free pattern donated by Ilske Thomsen of Hamburg, and posted with her permission
Waterlily: free pattern donated by Ilske Thomsen of Hamburg, and posted with her permission.
Bobbin Lace Collar F19: free pattern of my design. Uses Honiton or Duchesse technique, enlarged scale.
My Bobbin Lace: These are laces I have made from my own designs.
Learning bobbin lace: *
Learning Bobbin Lace: advice on how to set about learning, good books to help you learn bobbin lace, links to online lessons, photos of the typical learning laces for each form, advice on equipment. If you are thinking of taking a workshop, look at the learning laces, so you will know what to expect.
Bobbin Lace Basics: winding the bobbins, making the hitch, repairing a broken thread, the stitches, international color coding system, various kinds of sewings
Free Bobbin Lace Patterns: beginners' patterns for the lessons, and some intermediate level
Cloth Stitch Lesson: the 3 basic stitches -- cloth stitch, half stitch, and double stitch.
Plaited Lace Lesson 1: for absolute beginners. Explains 4 strand braid/plait, windmill crossing, knotted picots.
Plaited Lace Lesson 2: hanging on in pairs.
Plaited Lace Lesson 3: connecting the braid to a footside and sewing out at the end.
Plaited Lace Lesson 4: Using a pin twice or more, double thread picots, temporary pins.
Lesson 5: Tallies.
Plaited Lace Lesson 6: crossing 3 braids
Lesson 7: bookmark B8, cloth or half stitch spot, kiss stitch.
Circle Pattern: a place to practice 3 stitches, braid, tallies.
Square3: a square edging, for practicing different edge stitches.
Basic A: instructions for circular braid lace pattern Basic A.
Basic B: instructions for round braided pattern Basic B.
Braided Lace Edging B2: instructions for a braided edging.
Basic D: instructions for round pattern Basic D.
Bobbin Lace Collar F19: part lace design using macro Honiton or Duchesse technique.
Grounds: for practicing grounds used in torchon.
Learning Bobbin Lace-Samples: samples I have made while learning various styles, so you can see what to expect.
Two Structural Classes: explains the difference between Straight lace (continuous lace) and Part lace (sectional lace, also called free lace or freeform lace). Also structural distinctions between regional/period styles of bobbin lace.
Make a Pillow: Instructions for making a pillow out of wood and wool: a cookie pillow and a roller pillow.
My Books & Patterns, my bobbin lace patterns & books currently for sale (including my torchon lessons-as pdf files), and some Hardanger. I will add pulled thread and needlelace.
Needle Lace *
|Needlelace. Modern needle lace made and designed by Irma Ostermann||The Sun Needle Lace, designed and made by me, Lorelei Halley||Needle lace: Point de Gaze needlelace from the last half of the 19th century.|
Needle Lace Introduction: How it is made, general working methods. Also called punto in aria, dentelle a l'aguille, merletto ad ago, pizzod'ago, encaje de aguja, sita krajka, Nadelspitze
Learning Needlelace: Details of the working sequence, recommended books, lessons on line, other online resources to help you learn needle lace, photos of samplers and learning pieces.
Needle Lace Tutorial: Detailed instructions for a simple bookmark, explaining the basics of setting up the sandwich, how to attach beginning and ending tails of the lace threads, buttonholing the cordonnette to secure the ends.
Needle Lace Tutorial 2: Leaf 10, a simple leaf design with 8 spaces for stitches.
Reticella Needle Lace: how to lay the cordonnet using the fil de trace method.
Needle Lace Stitches: Some stitch diagrams, specific stitches used in certain historic styles of needlelace.
Free Needle Lace Patterns: some sampler patterns for you to try out several stitches.
Stitches of Point de Gaze What stitches were used and how they were used in typical motifs of that style
Stitches of Gros Point Stitches that occur in photographs of very old antique and in Revival Era gros point
Photos of antique and modern pieces:
Needlelace Gallery: Antique pieces: geometric, curvilinear flat, curvilinear raised
Needlelace by Living Lacemakers: Needlelace made and designed by living lacemakers
My Needle Lace: Pieces I have made and some of these I've designed. Includes some of my learning pieces.
Tenerife, also called Sol Lace, Nanduti * Filet Lacis, also called filet lace, lacis *
Filet Lacis and Teneriffe (Sol lace) Laces made on a handmade scaffolding of threads.
Filet lace (also called filet lacis, guipure d'art, lacis) is made on a square mesh knotted net. It can be made in the round, but this is rare.
Tenerife (Sol Lace, Nanduti) is made on a framework laid down like the spokes of a wheel. Individual motifs are mostly round, but can be square or hexagonal. Some Paraguayan (Nanduti) work has highly inventive shapes: crescents, stars, triangles.
Embroidered laces on woven fabric
pt39b m/b LH d/b LH Pulled thread work, pulled thread embroidery, drawn fabric embroidery. *
Pulled Thread Work:
How to do pulled thread embroidery, for those who want to learn pulled thread embroidery:
Pulled thread embroidery General description and introduction to working methods, general advice for getting started, overall strategy; online resources. Called Ajour Arbeit or Perser Ajour Arbeit in German.
Pulled Thread Tutorial Free lesson online and detailed instructions and diagrams for a sampler. Stitch diagrams for pulled thread and outline stitches, and edge finishing stitches. The yellow sampler. Some pulled thread stitches.
Pulled Thread Tutorial 2 free patterns and free lessons and instructions for bookmarks and small mats.
Pulled Thread Stitches Stitch diagrams for some of the most basic stitches
White Sampler photos of the stitches on my 110 pulled thread stitch sampler
Photos of finished work:
Pulled Thread Gallery Photos of finished work by me and others, possible ways to plan a design for this kind of embroidery
My Books & Patterns: includes pulled thread embroidery patterns, for sale. (I am preparing some pulled thread designs for sale, but they aren't ready yet.)
Hardanger embroidery. H102 m/b LH d/b LH *
How to make Hardanger embroidery:
Hardanger Embroidery -- General description of typical elements, introduction to working methods and designs, general advice for getting started, online resources.
Hardanger Tutorial -- free patterns and instructions for beginners, loop picots, stitches used, tips for working, basting lines
Hardanger Fillings (Hardanger Tutorial 2) -- different fillings and where they fit, kinds of bars, shapes of kloster blocks
Photos of finished work:
Hardanger Gallery -- Photos of Hardanger embroidery made by others, links to other photos
My Hardanger -- Pieces designed and made by me, some adaptations of designs by others, worked by me.
My Hardanger Small Mats and Bookmarks -- my designs (small pieces I worked while learning the technique)
My Books & Patterns: -- includes Hardanger patterns for sale.
Drawn Thread Work (including reticello, also called reticella) photos of antique and modern work. Cutwork has irregular or curvilinear holes are cut into fabric, stabilized and decorated.
Embroidered Laces on Hexagonal Net: needle run (darning) and tambour (chain stitch) Also called tulle embroidery. *
Coggeshall and Limerick are of this type.
Mixed laces: Battenberg lace and Branscombe point (machine made tapes and needlelace stitches) *
Also included are Romanian Needlepoint Laces, made with a crocheted strip held together with needlelace stitches.
Patchwork Lace * Made of several different kinds of lace sewn together to make a large object, tablecloth or coverlet.
Single thread techniques *
Tatting, Knitted Lace, and Irish Crochet Lace
© Lorelei Halley 2009
I am offering a great deal of information free to all the world, but I expect my copyright to be respected. None of my photographs, diagrams or text may be used for any commercial purpose whatsoever, unless I give permission in writing. None of my photographs, diagrams or text may be copied electronically or posted on the web unless I give permission in writing. Personal private use is permitted.
A new site for discussion of all forms of hand made lace: http://laceioli.ning.com For help identifying a piece of your lace go to http://laceioli.ning.com/group/identification-history
Please email me at firstname.lastname@example.org with any questions or comments July 2012 Last edited: 07/22/14